Rome & Campania: Part 3

21 September 2013

After one day of waking around Rome in the August heat we were ready to leave the city behind and travel south to the beautiful Campania region. 

Our B&B didn’t serve breakfast; instead we received two vouchers to a local cafe, where we could ask for a continental breakfast of a croissant, coffee and juice. Our train to Naples wasn’t leaving until around mid day so we had plenty of time for a long breakfast and a visit to a local supermarket to get some food for the journey. 

We were planning to go exploring Naples but again we were defeated by the heat. We wanted to be on Capri as soon as possible and even go for a quick evening swim. Little did we know that things weren’t going to go as smoothly as we wanted. We arrived in Naples at around 3PM and asked 2 different people what was the best way to get to the harbour. Confident that we received trustworthy instructions, we boarded the underground train and left at the station, which we were told, was very close to the harbour. We took 3 elevators up and it turned out we were at a tiny metro station somewhere in the middle of Naples. A lady selling tickets and she said we were about 3-4km from the harbour. We weren’t in a mood to go exploring with our luggage (especially after a work colleague, who’s Italian, told me that I should be careful as everyone is a foreigner in Naples, even other Italians). We took the metro back to the station and got a taxi, which was an experience in itself. 

Being a taxi driver in Naples should be classified as an extreme sport - the amount of horn blowing and overtaking that was going on made for a very entertaining, if a little scary, drive to the city harbour. Then it turned out the driver dropped us off at the wrong ferry terminal and we had to get a bus to the right one.
Eventually, we boarded our ferry at around 5 PM and we couldn't wait to arrive in Capri. The ferry drive was very quick, less than 1h and we arrived on the beautiful Capri island. Umberto, our host, called me a couple of times and gave us instructions on where to take a bus and he was going to wait for us in Anacapri. My first impression of Capri was: “gosh it’s beautiful, but there’s a lot of people here... “ even though I was expecting it, the crowds still surprised me a little bit. We made our way through the Marina to a bus stop and just managed to fit into one of the almost full small rusty buses. The bus ride to Anacapri was another experience I remember vividly: as Capri is a very rocky and high island most roads follow a hairpin pattern and are very narrow. Drivers have to use their horns to let the vehicles approaching from the other directions that they’re going to take a turning. Sometimes cars have to reverse to the nearest passing point as the road is too narrow. The bus was so full there was barely place to hold on to, most people had luggage with them and the driver was accelerating as much as possible on the rare straight stretches of the road. Needles to say we were happy to reach our destination. Ubmerto arrived shortly after and welcomed us like family: with open arms and by saying repeatedly how glad he was we were visiting the bella Capri. It turned out that Ubmerto and Ciro (our hosts) were going on a boat trip to Positano that night and we had the whole guest house to ourselves: the gardens overlooking the Med, the pool and a terrace with wine and snacks prepared for us by Ciro. Our room was simple but comfortable. We went for a quick swim in the pool and walked down the road for a walk and then for dinner to a local pizzeria. It was a long and tiring day but we were very happy to finally be close to the sea and couldn't wait to explore the island.

Marina Grande, a local public beach, just outside the bus stops. I couldn't wait to go for a swim, water looked so refreshing. 
A view from Mamma Mia road over Marina Grande and Capri
 Finally in our guest house, B&B La Guardia

 Unobstructed views of the Mediterranean from the terrace. It was so quiet and peaceful, especially on that afternoon when we had the whole guest house just for ourselves.
Our room was simple but comfortable. No air conditioning but certainly a bargain room rates for Capri. 

Our first walk on Capri, down a small path close to our accommodation. The sun was about to set, it was beautiful.

 View over Faro and a lighthouse.
 An old Fiat, we used to have lots of them in Poland when I was growing up, made me feel a little nostalgic.

 Pizza in a local restaurant. So delicious.
Sunset as seen from our terrace. It was a perfect ending to a long and tiring day. I was happy we were finally by the sea, with its breeze and those views. I couldn't wait to see more of Capri in the following days. 

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